After exploring the northern part of Yellowstone park, we headed back south and decided to base camp back at Madison for the next 2 nights.

This time we got much luckier in terms of elk related photography.  That evening along Madison River and confluence with the Gibbon River we encountered a male elk and its harem of about 8 female elk. This provided many opportunities under warm lighting opportunities around sunset along the river bank.  The next morning was equally productive within walking distance from the campsite.  It was quite a spectacle to see the goings-ons of the male elk, as he obviously was in want of companionship, while the females only seemed interested in his protection, but nothing more. Every time the male would advance on a cow, the cow would turn and walk away, causing the male to sometimes wail out a cry in frustration. We also witnessed the male peeing on the surrounding ground, and what also looked like himself. Talking to some locals, apparently they do this just like dogs, coyotes, or wolves to mark their territory, letting other male interlopers know that this area is theirs. In some cases the female elk would get uncomfortably close to us photographers, causing the protective male elk to come trotting over to check out the situation. Sometimes this would require backing away to avoid getting in the wrong place and potentially provoking a charge by the male. Given their size and their antlers, no one felt like testing if their supposed false charges they are known to make were exactly that.

While based in the central area of Yellowstone we also explored via some day hikes including Fairy Falls behind the lower geyser basin plus a hike to the top of Mount Washburn on the next day.  On the trip to the falls, there is also an opportunity to photograph the Chromatic geyser basin from a small hill.  There is an ad-hoc trail that you can scramble up about 100 yards to give you a scenic vantage point.  Continuing on to the falls, in comparison to some of the other falls in Yellowstone, Fairy Falls requires some additional creativity in order to generate something more interesting as a piece of photographic art. Steve tried scaling the slopes on either side in search of a better foreground, but settled on just using the rocks in the stream in front with camera at a very low angle.  On some of these hiking trails you can experience more of the nature, while also potentially getting yourself in more trouble as there are no rails or fences to prevent you from getting too close (as demonstrated to the left when Randy was checking out this particular geyser). On the return from this particular hike we also happened across another large bison that decided to lounge on the trail in front of us.  After a few moments it wandered off, allowing us to proceed.

The 3 mile hike up Mount Washburn the next morning was a good opportunity to stretch the legs and to get a great vantage point for most of the park. Photography-wise, the hike up the mountain is not as interesting unless you can get lucky in spotting some wildlife (Cliff and Don managed to photograph a red fox passing through the area, while Steve was able to capture a Coopers hawk). At the top there is a nicely enclosed fire look-out complete with bathrooms (there is a full time look-out employee who lives up there). To bad it was not like the Swiss Alps where you could be rewarded for your climb with coffee, hot chocolate, or beer with a nice lunch. Perhaps one day some entrepreneur will sieze upon this idea and bring it to the states.

To wrap up this story, visiting the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone was a successful trip photography-wise. Camping allows you to be in a better position for the right lighting at early morning or evening.  The latter half of September or early October is advantegous for a few reasons: The number of tourists is less, the fall colors will be out, and the rutting season for the elk will have begun.  I couldn't imagine visiting Yellowstone in the summer, as it probably would have numerous traffic jams with a multitude of people visiting the various geysers or whenever some animal would cross the road.  If you wait until late October, then you run the risk of colder weather or snow that may limit travel or ability to more easily camp.  The next visit for Steve to this area may be in the winter in an effort to specifically photograph the wild wolves, but more planning will be required before bottoming on such a trip...

- Stephen Fischer